If a SHTF or TEOTWAWKI event occurs, we will have to exist and survive with what we have on hand. Currently there is a buying rush for firearms and ammo in fear that they may not be available in the future due to government laws or restrictions. Whether a firearm owner plans to use their firearms for food or protection or both, a firearm will do you little good if the firearm is not working or not maintained.
Thankfully, most modern firearms are very durable and don’t usually break under normal use. But in a SHTF or TEOTWAWKI event, you will have to know how to get your firearm back in working order if it breaks and this means you will need to have a few basic parts on hand and some knowledge on your firearm.
Many people have an AR-15 for one of their emergency preparedness firearms. There are several parts that seem to wear out, springs in general are the parts that seem to wear out first. In many cases small parts don’t wear out but they are easily lost when stripping or cleaning your firearm. Detents come to mind for an AR-15. It would be sad to have a firearm out of service because you don’t have a $1 part.
Repair Kits
My suggestion is to get a replacement set of springs for every firearm you own. Next would be an extra set of pins and small parts. A replacement small parts kit for an AR-15 will probably run $75 – $150 depending how many of the parts you decide to store. For a comprehensive parts kit, you can buy a lower parts kit, an upper parts kit, a complete charging handle, and a bolt assembly parts kit.
If you plan to buy more than one AR-15, I suggest buying the same type of AR-15. If you have an A3 Carbine type (rail on the upper receiver) with a collapsible stock, then when you buy an additional AR, buy the same type so that parts will be interchangeable.
Based on my experience, I’ve put together an AR-15 parts repair kit.
AR-15 Basic Parts Kit
- 2 – Crush washer
- 5 – Gas tube roll pin
- 11 – Gas tube, CAR
- 21 – Front sling swivel
- 22 – Front sling swivel rivet
- 23 – Charging handle latch roll pin
- 24 – Charging handle latch
- 25 – Charging handle latch spring
- 26 – Charging handle
- 30 – Firing pin retaining pin
- 33 – Bolt gas ring, each (3 required)
- 35 – Extractor spring
- 36 – Extractor spring insert
- 38 – Extractor pin
- 39 – Ejector roll pin
- 40 – Ejector spring
- 41 – Ejector
- 42 – Forward Assist Assembly
- 43 – Pawl spring pin
- 44 – Pawl spring
- 45 – Pawl detent
- 47 – Forward assist spring
- 48 – Ejection port cover
- 49 – Ejection port cover spring
- 50 – Ejection port cover pin
- 51 – Pin retaining ring
- 54 – Forward assist spring pin
- 82 – Pistol grip screw
- 83 – Lock washer
- 85 – Safety detent spring
- 86 – Safety detent
- 87 – Hammer and trigger pin, (2 required)
- 88 – Magazine release button
- 89 – Magazine catch spring
- 90 – Trigger guard pivot roll pin
- 92 – Trigger spring
- 94 – Disconnector
- 95 – Disconnector spring
- 96 – Pivot pin
- 97 – Pivot pin spring
- 98 – Pivot pin detent
- 100 – Bolt catch spring
- 101 – Bolt catch plunger
- 102 – Bolt catch roll pin
- 105 – Hammer spring
- 108 – Buffer retainer
- 109 – Buffer retainer spring
- 110 – Takedown pin spring
- 111 – Takedown pin detent
- 112 – Takedown pin
The number in front of each part name corresponds with the schematics below. This kit currently costs around $75 at wholesale prices.
Buy Mil-Spec firearms and Mil-Spec parts and you won’t have problems with parts fitting. I like Rock River ARs. DPMS and Bushmaster are also Mil-Spec but Bushmaster has become a little overpriced compared to the other manufacturers.
It goes without saying that if you are going to be able to do repairs on your own firearms, you need to learn how to completely strip and reassemble your firearms. There are many good videos from gunvideo.com, americangunsmith.com. There are also some really good free videos at brownells.com. Here is the link.
Unlike a Glock which can be completely assembled and disassembled with a single tool, an AR-15 needs a several tools to complete the job. Here is a list:
Tool List
- Roll Pin Punches – to drive roll pins (3/32″, 1/8″, 5/32″); these have a small raised projection in the face of the punch to automatically center the punch and prevent the roll pin from collapsing
- Hammer – used to drive the roll pins, brass hammer works best
- Block of wood – base to support receiver when driving roll pins
- Allen Wrench - used for some pistol grips
- Telescoping Stock Wrench – to tighten telescoping stock lock ring
- Needle Nose Pliers – used to hold and start roll pins
If you have any questions about the disassembling or reassembling of your firearm talk to a professional armorer or gunsmith.
Ed Rogers
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